Their elongated spines that protect a reddish or orange interior characterize the Cantabrian sea urchins, also called 'orices'. The price of these echinoderms it has been progressing more and more until it is currently at exaggerated prices. Now, in February the campaign for this product begins because in these cold months it is when they are fuller inside. Something that allows you to get the most out of the more through its different ways of elaboration. With a foreign demand Increased, we tell you all about these succulent marine delicacies.
Caviar of the poor in the north
The fishing villages of the Cantabrian Autonomous Community maintain a long tradition around Cantabrian sea urchins. For decades, they have even been known as the caviar of the poor, although not so much because of the price they had before but because the catches were abundant. However, the climate change has been causing havoc in the waters that bathe the north of the peninsula until reducing the number of copies of these echinoderms.
Thus, long ago, they were often stranded on the shore, defenseless against fishermen from Galicia, Asturias and, of course, Cantabria. In the latter region they became a rite among the sailor community. Even in Catalonia, in certain maritime areas, they could be collected without complications. But that was before, the situation has changed a lot. Both in the presence of hedgehog as in its market price.
The lower the quantity, the higher the price
The 'orices' they are animals that need to inhabit cold waters like those of the north of Spain, as well as feeding on algae to grow and reproduce. But, as we have already pointed out, the crisis that the global climate is going through with global warming it has modified those ideal conditions for them. In this way, they live less and less Cantabrian sea urchins and those that exist are smaller. This is how it has been discovered by various studies that have analyzed the evolution of the species.
Bernabe Garcia he is one of the witnesses who has observed how the amount collected has been falling. Owner of the El Globo Cider House in Gijón (Asturias), he offered sea urchins in his place to accompany the typical Asturian drink. As he has told the newspaper La Vanguardia, before "they were bought by shovels" with "trucks that unloaded in the Old Municipal Fishmonger«. Its price was "100 pesetas". Now, from that time it has already rained a lot.
The demand for this delicacy has been growing, especially internationally, with France, Italy, Belgium and Japan at the head of that eagerness to import them. Then, as usually happens in these cases of less supply but greater interest, the price has skyrocketed having become a rare product. Germán Riesgo knows very well how prices have changed. It is a distributor of both fish and shellfish in the Rendiello Pier, also located in Gijon, and has confirmed to EFE that back in 2012 the kilo of sea urchins was sold by boat for about 4€. Today it reaches 12€.
Multiplied by more than 300%
If this price difference is already evident enough, it should be noted that in recent five years has multiplied by more than 300%. Such has been the rise that a portion of 12 units de Cantabrian sea urchins it may cost a few 20 €. And the most important of all this is that the local markets are soon out of supply because all the catches in one day are sold abroad. Why is this echinoderm so in demand?
Powerful and peculiar flavor in a variety of dishes
Many Italian or French diners consider hedgehogs better even than oysters and barnacles Galicians. Its powerful and particular flavor has captivated the palates without that protection of spikes that identifies the animal being a stumbling block to its purchase. Then in the kitchen, and advantages that it offers are several to taste its red meat directly raw, cooked, blanched in a sauce or also reduced. In addition, gastronomic creativity has been growing in the use of this delicacy that here in Spain is consumed more in Asturias. Whether breaded or even in Croquetas, Cantabrian sea urchins fall in love.
