Write: Monica Uriel. Argentine journalist
Lovers and curious how to find the white truffles every year they have an appointment with tradition in Toscana. In the middle of the land of Montalcino and Brunello wines. Where it is possible to accompany a truffle hunter, meet and taste the latest products made with the most coveted mushroom. As well as touring these unique landscapes aboard a steam train.
All this happens in San Giovanni d'Asso. Town in the province of Siena that has a Truffle museum. Every year the second and third weekend of November celebrates the Exhibition of the white tartufo delle Crete Senesi. This has already reached its 32nd edition.
La white truffle (tuber magnatum pico) of this area is one of the most precious of Italy along with those of Piemonte and Umbria. The presence of forests occupies 30% of the surface of Crete Senesi, one hour from Siena. And in one of these poplar forests the visitor will go out next to the 'tartufaio' and his two dogs hunting for truffles. Only 270 registered in the association of truffle hunters in the area like him can enter reserves like this, Mario Vanini.
The white truffle cannot be cultivated
Unlike black truffles, "the white truffle it cannot be cultivated. In any case, the hand of man can help in the forest, preventing, for example, the accumulation of water ”. That explains us Mario a Great Products.
La truffle it needs humidity but the water has to run. Between him and the dogs, trained for this work since they were two months old as a form of play, "never as an obligation", a great complicity can be observed. Mario he is the only one who caresses them and feeds them. In this way the dogs only obey him.
Dogs, true protagonists
El 'tartufaio' makes a sound for them to start searching. "Because of its raised tail it is known that dogs are on the lookout," he says. Mario. He stresses that “dogs are necessary to search for truffles. The other two elements are perseverance and luck ”.
Before they were used pigs, but a small detail caused him to change from animal to Italy: they ate the truffles they found. "When dogs are found, they can be removed from their mouths."
The Dogs they can be of any raza, just be quiet. "They take truffle hunting as a game." Whether or not they are rewarded at the nutritional level for Mario, because "they are not to blame if there are no truffles."
The Dogs They are guided by the smell of the earth and then they begin to dig, sometimes a lot. The truffles they can be found up to a meter deep. "It takes a lot of patience with dogs," he says. Mario. Between September and December, the truffle ripening period, Mario He starts looking for truffles at 6:30 in the morning.
To this he dedicates nine hours, walking an average of 15 kilometers a day. He will not even tell his wife where to look truffles, because a great secrecy reigns in this world. Nor will it ever reveal how many it has found. Yes tell us that the largest white truffle that he found weighed 700 grams.
This year, due to the little rain, it is not being good for the truffles, whose price has become more expensive. Their prices fluctuate every week and in November they were around 5.000 euros the kilo.
In the market there are "a thousand" products made with truffle
The visitor will be able to taste the white truffle that I find Mario. A cook by profession, he began hunting them a decade ago, in his restaurant in Siena: Osteria Cane e Gatto.
Meanwhile, at the foot of the castle of San Giovanni d'Asso, the latest news can be discovered during the days of the fair. As a truffle spray or truffle fries. Meanwhile, from museum the visitor leaves with a trained sense of smell. Who knows if I eat dogs, to recognize them.
Reserves of truffles, and vineyards, herds and landscapes of cypress trees it is observed as in landscapes immortalized by painters and photographers. They can be seen from a recovered vintage steam train that travels through places that the roads do not reach.
This is the Natural Train. A steam train from 1914 with wagons restructured in the 30s. It makes 19 trips a year coinciding with gastronomic events. Among them the Show of the white truffle. In addition to enjoying the landscapes, the trip allows to know the operation of the steam trains.
