Home News The «flat rate» for the new PGI Jamón Serrano

The «flat rate» for the new PGI Jamón Serrano

The controversy returns to the Spanish ham sector. After the controversies that recurrently occur in the IberianNow it is the turn of the white-coated ham. On this occasion, everything is caused by the interest of the Ministry of Agriculture and the main meat employers (Anice) for creating the IGP Spanish Serrano Ham.

Both institutions, driving the demand, hope to obtain from the European Union a Protected Geographical Indication for the Serrano ham. An IGP that covers the entire national territory (with the exception of Ceuta and Melilla). With this they intend to “monopolize” the distinctive commercial domain of this product. Leaving in this way the productions of other European geographical areas and third countries.

The reputation of the product

According to the Ministry of Agriculture, the main objective pursued with the establishment of this new PGI Spanish Serrano Ham is to avoid copy and fraud in the market using that term that differentiates it from other hams. The Spanish government finally assures the European Union “that the application for registration of the PGI Serrano Ham it is based on the reputation of the product ”.

Cut piece of Jamón de Trevélez
Cut piece of Jamón de Trevélez

This same reasoning is used by the National Association of Meat Industries of Spain (Anice). At the end of November 2020, it sent a letter to its almost 1.000 affiliates informing them of the status of the application for the new differentiated quality seal for Spanish Serrano ham. In the letter - to which this medium has had access in exclusive- They openly acknowledge that at the request of the European Commission, “various technical aspects had to be adjusted. All to improve the definition of the specifications, thus basing the Serrano Ham PGI on reputation and not so much on the climatic conditions of Spain ”.

Official arguments for the new PGI Jamón Serrano

This incongruous approach contradicts the robust proposal framed in the original form of conditions sent to Brussels. In it, the Department of agriculture stated that “the differentiation and exceptionality of Serrano Ham is, without a doubt, a consequence of the orographic peculiarity and the high altitude mean of the territory defined for its production, -660 meters-. All this associated with a climate of cold winters, dry and hot summers, avoiding at all times the excess humidity that proximity to the sea can provide ”.

Serrano Ham made by Cecinas Villablanca-Chile
Serrano Ham made by Cecinas Villablanca-Chile / Photo captured from Facebook

In the same way, he emphasized that “the etymology of the name Jamón Serrano offers a clear idea of ​​its origins: the sierra or the mountainous area. The production system requires conditions associated with a climatological identity typical of a given territory. He too the know-how of the ham holders who have endured their knowledge from generation to generation since time immemorial ”.

In the absence of legal protection and industrial property, meat companies from countries such as China, Chile, Mexico or Argentina The words "Serrano ham" are used as a commercial claim. In this way they produce, label and market hams cured like mountain people.

Serrano Ham-Produced in Brazil
Serrano Ham-Produced in Brazil / Photograph captured from a Brazilian website

Harsh criticism in the sector

Although the main objective is to protect a quality Spanish product, the truth is that the new PGI is designed to achieve the opposite. In short, for lower your standards, since the specifications for its preparation are just as lax as that set for producing cured ham. These hams are so far certified with the basic community distinctive of Guaranteed Traditional Specialty (TSG).

The new seal of protected quality, “PGI Serrano Ham”, Allows the product to be produced anywhere in the Spanish geography, whether saw or not. The new badge does not enter the way of curing and maturing. In other words, it leaves the free choice of the industrialist to opt for the artisanal way or to benefit from aging the pieces in any industrial warehouse. Also in coastal areas making use of refrigeration devices and artificial control of the ambient temperature.

IGP Jamón Trevélez production dryer
IGP Jamón Trevélez production dryer

In this way, the Unfair competition with respect to the rest of the existing community labels in the Serrano ham sector, whose production processes are many more expensive. These correspond to natural management and with climatic conditions associated with a properly delimited territory. In addition, the maturation period would be allowed to be only 7 months instead of the Current 16 months for pieces of 7 Kg.

No demands on breeds or food

It is striking that a differentiated quality seal is requested for the generality of Spanish Serrano ham. But on the other hand, the different production specifications notified by Agriculture to Brussels do not state that the animals are born, raised and fattened in Spanish territory. In this way, the door is left open to the introduction and handling of pieces of fattened and slaughtered animals outside the Spanish borders. Hiding and confusing this productive formula to consumers.

The specification does not enter into any type of requirement of races or crosses between them that guarantee the quality or specificity of the product. In such a way that pieces from any breed of pig could be certified as Serrano hams, with the new PGI. On the other hand, there is no special requirement regarding the feeding or breeding of the animals. Something that could provide higher quality standards in particular. It is only required that the raw material comes from healthy and well-fed pigs.

Serrano Ham Dryer
Serrano Ham Dryer

Rejection of the PGI Jamón de Trévelez and Serón

The two PGIs for Serrano ham that currently exist, such as Trevélez ham (Granada) and Serón ham, (Almería) are against the creation of this IGP. They have officially presented their opposition to this ministerial project together with a good number of Granada city councils in the region of La Alpujarras. In addition, the Diputación de Granada has joined them. Also almost a dozen DOP from various producing sectors, who understand that its approval will devalue community figures of protected and differentiated quality.

All these institutions and companies oppose the registration of the new IGP. They allege this because, in a deceptive and unfair way, it seeks to appropriate the term "Serrano ham" to identify, in reality, pieces that have not been made in the mountains, nor cured in natural environments. This would eliminate the difference they have specific craft processes as is currently the case with Trevélez ham. In addition, they could come from animals raised, slaughtered and arrived from abroad.

Portugal and Origin Spain, also against 

In addition to the aforementioned IGP, the Granada Provincial Council and that large group of Regulatory Councils of different sectoral PDOs, also our neighbors Portuguese they have shown their most absolute opposition. Portugal he is now in charge of the presidency of the European Union. And taking advantage of their turn in office, they will undertake all the pertinent appeals to the Brussels institutions. Everything so that Spain does not exclusively assume the use and registration of a so generic and globalized commercial domain as "Serrano Ham". The Portuguese government considers that there is no difference or specificity with the ham that they produce in an important part of their territory.

In recent days, the Origin Spain association -which has among its affiliates 64 of the main PDO and PGI of the Spanish agri-food sector- has also formalized its opposition. They argue "that the production criteria proposed and listed in the specifications for the future PGI of national coverage show the existence of a clear disconnection between the protected product, its quality level and the producing area." Therefore, they understand “that it cannot be accepted that a product is the same in the north as in the south of Spain. Or that there is an equality of characteristics throughout the Spanish territory ”.

Logo Origin Spain
Logo Origin Spain / Photo: origenespaña

Origin Spain, in favor of quality

“Origen España will always be in favor of all forms and figures that show differentiated quality, but it understands that in this case the new and globalized PGI Serrano Ham does not meet the differential features. Features that should be the distinctive basis of any PGI ", they point out. They conclude by openly expressing their concern that the approval of this national PGI may open the door to the launch of other generic commercial domains.

As an example, a PGI olive oil from Spain “Which would imply unprotecting all the Denominations of Origin. Also the Geographical Indications that currently exist in Spain. Besides being detrimental to the image and credibility of any figure of differentiated and protected quality ”.

In accordance with the decrees that regulate the processing of applications for the registration of PDOs and PGIs, the following shall be considered as grounds for opposition: “When it is shown that the name whose registration is requested is of a generic nature because it has become the common name of an agricultural or food product ”. And, in an obvious way, the phrase Serrano ham is a generic name -not specific- in the terms that the community regulation also coined ».

Meanwhile, Department of agriculture avoid any kind of responsibility. It states that from said body "only the regulations are registered and verified, neither promoted nor created, since the final authority is of the European Commission." We will see how all this controversy derived from the PGI Serrano Ham Spanish.

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