Spain and Portugal have millions of defenders of the Iberian piginstallation of a genuine breed linked to the peninsula. In reality, almost every one of its inhabitants could fulfill that statement. With the patrimonial pride that represents having an ancient animal, little evolved. An animal that gives us a unique product of excellent quality, which is part of the healthy Mediterranean diet and which forces us to become its strongest ambassadors and supporters. But are we really protecting it?
A recent publication in The Guardian revealed the existence of Iberian pig farms in the United States, something that was news and that we already told you a few weeks ago here as possible threat . Increasingly numerous farms that are raising and fattening pigs of our native and pure spanish race, for the elaboration and commercialization of its noble pieces in the territory of "Uncle Sam". Astonishment produces that the competent authority allows or does not control the departure of live specimens to other countries. All this has surprised those who believe that it is impossible to implant, breed and fatten outside the Iberian Peninsula.
Is there any measure to preserve your young?
That's the real problem. The priority should go through administratively protect the cattle herd of the legitimate Iberian pig breed. Also its differentiated breeding, management and fattening system based on acorns, grass and other natural resources that they get by walking in complete freedom through the peninsular meadows. Bait activity that occurs at the time of montanera coinciding with the winter season.
All this linked, in addition, to a traditional elaboration of the product. A process where the paused should prevail tuning and maturation of its most noble pieces (hams, shoulders, loin canes and cold meats) in natural drying rooms.
In search of a solution
Perhaps the only hope and useful alternative would be to trust that the European Union agree to grant the registration of a Protected Geographical Indication (PGI). Protection for the genuine and pure breed of Iberian pigs, through a specification that defines with crystal clarity the main lines of this exclusive grazing and production plan.
Only with an approach based on these pillars could it be possible to advance in obtaining a PGI. Thus the armor of the legitimate race would be achieved. Protection reserved equally for a unique and differentiated product. All of this would make it possible to establish agreements, as was done recently with China. Collaboration agreements that prevent and punish fraud and copy of European PDO's and PGI's products.
But the problem is that the managers who must approach, process and claim the granting of that differentiated seal of protection and guarantee They are the heads of the Ministry of Agriculture. Also the Interprofessional Association of the Iberian Pig (asici). Both are “obliged” to fight, so as not to disappoint the will and aspirations of the implacable sector lobby of the Iberian pig, with a duality difficult to conceive and bear fruit. Merge and unite within the same community label of differentiated quality (PGI) the animals of the true and indigenous Iberian breed fed with acorns in the unique ecosystem of the peninsular dehesa.
And to the more than 3,3 million hybrid animals (96% of the total) that on average are slaughtered annually in Spain, under the umbrella of the artificial Iberian breed. The problem arises when the Ministry of Agriculture and Asici express their absolute refusal, over and over again, to disassociate these "crossed" specimens from the true Iberian breed.
Not only Iberian pig and pasture, also farm crossbreds and feed
Such nonsense, coated with priority, has the clear purpose of circumventing a reality and making it go completely unnoticed by the consumer. And it is that, in the Iberian pig, Nothing is what it seems. This "crusade" aspiration of the bosses and the powerful intensive animal industry serves to show that almost all these hybrid animals never set foot on the pasture. They feed only on Feed. And they live in stables - without seeing sunlight - in a space of 2 m2 in any remote farm in the Spanish geography.
Meanwhile, the MAP has consented to its conversion and transformation into false copies of the Iberian breed. All this by fitting it into a spurious executive regulation, the current Iberian quality standard. A standard that systematically dynamite recovery and progression of the authentic pig of the Iberian breed in favor of mass industrial production.
In short, we are talking about an absurd and crazy dream that lacks the most basic credibility to pass "the cotton test" of Brussels. This will hinder any serious and effective attempt to reach a negotiation with the European Union to get much needed protection. Every time it's more urgent that the true animal of the pure Iberian breed is protected, its management in the pasture and its fattening with the fruit of the acorn, by means of a PGI.
Who should defend the Iberian pig?
Undoubtedly the maximum depository of said responsibility is the Department of agriculture. Behind him, the duo of the "well paid" appears, that is, the Interprofessional Association of the Iberian (asici) and the Spanish Association of Iberian Pig Breeders, (aceriber). Its only reason for being, in both cases, inevitably passes through the defense of the Iberian pig purebred, as stated in their statutes. Sectoral organizations, used to easy money, which they receive in the form of large institutional grants. Other monopoly concessions also bring them millionaire rewards.
These associations Ministerial "servants" they do not show the slightest blush and I hesitate to say one thing today and the opposite tomorrow. Always aligned with the valuations of Agriculture and the great sectorial lobby. Constantly hiding in need of correct "alleged" market failures to favor the interests of the cross-feed and farm animal entrepreneurs. Associations that when crises hit the sector, always go to the Ministry in search of millionaire aid. As always, forgetting the good times in which the irresponsible and populist speeches of their leaders invited overproduction.
Lack of racial purity, the official pass for the scam?
The worst thing is that the policy of "genetically graduated fraud" of the Iberian pig, established by Agriculture through the RD 4 / 2014, we must add other serious "attacks". All against the same regulations, deliberately perpetrated from the Central Administration itself. Always with the decided support and mediation of the subsidized Asici and Aeceriber. Measures not to disturb the industrialists who manage, at their full convenience, in their breeding farms invalidated by the Iberian Quality Standard.
The Ministry of Agriculture, with the support of Asici, through a simple and calculated administrative office, without any legislative validation, has taken years covering up irregularities. You knowingly consent that 6.000 males, without a defined breed and without traceability genealogical records registered in any racial census are suitable for crossing with "theoretical" Iberian mothers. In this way, productions are subsequently misleadingly labeled as Iberian breed. Let us remember that the current law only admits stallions of the Iberian breed and the Duroc breed, registered in their stud books.
Asici bets on brands that "mislead"
An Iberian interprofessional that for years has sculpted a sector to the measure of the interests of the “hybrid” pig of feed and farm. Some of whose leaders have a voice and vote on Asici's own board of directors. Association that is convinced that the administrations and producers of purebred pigs and dehesa are never going to rebel. Always ready to obtain compensation through strategies that make massive consumer deception possible.
The latter is clear from the resolution promulgated by the European Union Intellectual Property Office (EUIPO). It denied the employer, in a definitive way, the application for the registration of the collective brand, «Iberian Hams of Spain». The main reason, argued by the European body to reject its registration outright, is that this "Misleads the consumer." He also objected "that the use of the requested collective mark will induce the public to think that it has the value of an official seal or guarantee, issued by public administrations." For all this, the EUIPO resolved “that the trademark for which the application has been it is not registrable".
But nevertheless, after the blow from Brussels, asici has continued doing use of said legend and its corresponding accrediting image with total impudence. Trademark sign that has even been used in events presided over by the highest institutional representatives of the State.
And the most recent abuse occurred last week during the celebration of the San Sebastian film festival, where said distinctive was placed next to the emblem of the European Union. Not forgetting either that at the beginning of August this year, it supported a promotional action in the public chain of Paradores de Turismo de España. Campaign baptized as "The Day of the Iberian in Paradores".
Aeceriber's responsibility in the contaminated herd book
This type of trickery, harmful to the interests of consumers and the pure race, has also been added aceriber. This company administers under a monopoly regime the herd book of the Iberian pig breed. All this by express concession of Agriculture. Its managers openly admit that in the aforementioned census file there are inventories of reproductive mothers that are not purebred or 100% Iberian. This has caused widespread contamination of the entire cattle herd.
This means that more than 500.000 breeders (85% of all those existing on the farms) enjoy a genetic passport of the raza Iberian adulterated. Despite belonging to crossbreds, these mothers will be covered by males of the Duroc breed or by one of the thousands without a declared and registered breed used by breeders, after ministerial approval. Avoiding, in this way, the quality standard required by the maximum Iberian racial purity in all cases to obtain new copies.
The problem is that the products of these fake animals will be labeled with the lucrative Iberian breed qualification. Even though these will never reach 50% of the blood of the Iberian race, as provided by the current legal system.
What conclusion can we draw?
In this new order it is clear that a firm defense of the pig of the legitimate Iberian breed. Institutions, sectoral organizations, consumer associations and the industry itself look the other way. Nor does anyone think about homeless consumers who believe that they consume Iberian product and not a substitute.
Now we can only appeal to the gastronomy professionals, top-level chefs, ambassadors of the Spain brand. It is time that they can take the witness and undertake that necessary rebellion.
Who dares to take the first step and challenge the majority of the artificial Iberian sector?
A very powerful industry, intelligently managed by the influential and all-powerful crossbreed feed and farm hog lobby. Meat companies that they have obtained that the leaders of the ministry and of diverse political parties of the parliamentary arch deliver them the name of the Iberian breed, through "fraudulent" legislation. A law that allows genetically chopping up an undivided and millennial race. Everything for the Iberian pig, . of all, become a brand only of some.
